Sunday, June 29, 2014

Solo - Day 10 - Saturday, June 29, 1974

Got up around 7AM and found the sun shining outside.  It turns out the weather report was changed and no rain for today.  Had a good breakfast and then left the motel and hitched a rid to Duncannon.  First car picked me up - a VW Thing.  (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_181)  Went to the post office - still no mail.  Left my pack there and went to the laundromat.  Called home and surprise - Rick was there.  He quit his hike and is heading off for Cape Cod on his bicycle to look for a job.  Glad to hear that I'm not the only one ready to quit.  I'm still not sure what I will do, but I am now headed home.  My pen.. 

[At this point my pen ran out of ink, just as I had run out of motivation to continue my hike for this year (an ironic coincident?).  I was finding it very difficult to continue solo, and I was also feeling some financial pressure as my personal funds were running low.  I ended up going back home, going back to my job at the Dental Lab and returning to the University of Connecticut in the spring of 1975.  My hike of the trail remained unfinished over the next 7 years, but I was fortunate enough to meet a lot of AT hikers at UConn in 1975 and beyond through the Outing Club and through meeting Warren Doyle.  These encounters helped keep the dream alive for me until I finally returned to the trail for a solo attempt in 1981.  I am planning to continue this blog format for that hike next spring as I present excerpts from my journal entries with photos each day, this time 34 years later.  Stay tuned.]

Saturday, June 28, 2014

Solo - Day 9 - Friday, June 28, 1974 - US Route 11 to Duncannon, PA

24.3 miles - 825.7 cumulative miles


I got up around 6AM and had a Continental Breakfast in the lobby - coffee and donuts!  Started out at 8:10 and walked a mile down Route 11.  Then I continued on roads all morning.  Got to Darlington Shelter at 11:00.  There was a short section up to there that was not much of a road.  Ate at the shelter and left at 12.  It was starting to get cloudy by then.

Continued on for another bunch of road walking.  Nice farmland.  Finally got off the roads and began steep climb, and it started to rain.  Rough rocky trail for 4 miles on ridge in the rain, then down steep and rocky trail to Duncannon.  Went to the post office.  No mail for me.  Disappointing.

Not much of any place to stay in town either.  Hotel was full.  A girl named Cindy who is hiking the trail was looking for a place to stay, too.  I called a guy, Bill S. who I met in the post office.  He said he'd give me a ride to a motel outside of town if I called.  So he took Cindy and I to a place 3 miles south of town.  TV doesn't work.  Very discouraged.

Hawk Rock overlooking Duncannon.  No view in the rain.

Friday, June 27, 2014

Solo - Day 8 - Thursday, June 27, 1974 - Tagg Run Leantos to US Route 11

20.1 miles - 801.4 cumulative miles

Tagg Run

Rough day.  I woke up at 5:30 but didn't get up until after 6.  Took my time getting breakfast and didn't finally leave until 7:45.  Went a short way and got lost in a corn field.  Took a wrong turn. 


I hiked fast and furious for 2 hours straight, stopping at a viewpoint on Rocky Ridge.  Then 2 more hours straight to Middle Point Knob.  Really wore me down.  Did more than 10 miles in those two stretches of hiking.  The only good part was going through the maze of rocks on top of Rocky Ridge.  I hated it at the time, but it was funny.

View from Rocky Ridge

After a lunch with the ants, I suffered through a mile or so of rocks.  Big and rough.  The kind the rest of the Pennsylvania section is supposedly made up of.  Then I descended to the valley and began the insane road walking.  Got to the post office at 3:00.  Continued on towards Route 11.  Feet killing me.

Pennsylvania Rocks


Got to Route 11 and hiked a half mile along the road to a motel.  Lots of fast traffic, lots of trucks.  Ate a big meal at Howard Johnsons.  Supposed to rain tomorrow. 

Cumberland Valley

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Solo - Day 7 - Wednesday, June 26, 1974 - Birch Run Leantos to Tagg Run Leantos

16.6 miles - 781.3 cumulative miles

Tumbling Run

Got up this morning and it was still dripping rain and foggy and cold and generally miserable.  Had a slow breakfast and slowly packed up to go.  The other 3 hikers left fairly early.  That strange group of Boy Scouts came by and rested awhile.

Left at 9:30.  Wendy went north with me to the road and hitched a ride south.  She is trying to catch up to her schedule, I guess.  I hiked all the way to Toms Run Shelter, only stopping a minute or two on the way.


This ruin is a remnant of the old Camp Michaux.  It was once a farm associated with Pine Grove Furnace, involved with iron making.  In the 1930s it was used as a Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) camp.  Then during World War II it was used as a Prisoner of War camp for German U-boat prisoners.











Had lunch with the three guys from last night.  The strange Scouts were there, too.  Went on straight to Pine Grove Furnace State Park.  Hung around the store there for an hour with the 3 guys.  They were leaving for home from there.  I bought a few supplies and snacks and played The Who (The Real Me from Quadrophenia) on the juke box. 

Hunter's Run

Continued on through fairly nice woods and over a good sized hill to Tagg Run Shelters.  Got here around 6PM.  There are 3 other AT hikers in the other shelter.  I am staying in the dumpy one.  The other hikers aren't very friendly.  I went over to borrow something, and they were too wrapped up in getting stoned on hash.  There is also a campground nearby and kids are running around the shelter area in their pajamas.  Strange.

Saw 2 deer this afternoon, one squirrel, a groundhog in a tree and two dogs.

Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Solo - Day 6 - Tuesday, June 25, 1974 - Birch Run Leantos

0.0 miles

Miserable day.  Spent the whole day waiting out the rain in Birch Run.  The girl from the ATC, Wendy, sat it out, too.  The Boy Scouts and the other 2 guys left, though.  It was kind of fun sitting there watching all the wet people pass by while I was dry.  One hiker came by and asked us "How are you today?", and Wendy says "Dry".

Anyway, I sat and read and ate all day.  And it rained off and on all day.  It was cold, too.  Some summer weather!  The Boy Scouts provided some entertainment in the morning as they ran back and forth to get water.  A man, his son and another kid came by in the evening and are staying the night.  Had fun getting the fire going, twice.  The first time it started raining hard just after we got it going.  The second time we had better luck.

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Solo - Day 5 - Monday, June 24, 1974 - Antietam Leanto to Birch Run Leantos

19.7 miles - 764.8 cumulative miles

Birch Run Leantos
 The other 2 guys got up and split at 5:30AM.  I stayed in my bag until 7:30.  I just didn't want to get up or do anything.  Had breakfast and left about 8:30.  I really had to push myself to get going.  It got better though as I began climbing a fairly steep hill.  I really enjoy climbing when there's a challenge.

Came across a gang of Boy Scouts.  Really strange bunch.  I rushed on by them and on to Raccoon Run Shelters.  There was a guy there from Virginia hiking south for a month or so.  He was sick this morning so he was sitting it out for a while.  Had lunch there and pushed on past all kinds of Resort Cabins and then a golf course!  Then through Caledonia State Park with all the vacationers frolicking in the swimming pool.  Rushed through that scene and on up a very steep, but satisfying climb.


Came across the 2 guys from last night sitting in the sun.  I sat, too, for about a half hour.  Then I moved on quickly another 8 miles.  I moved fast!!  Passed lots of huge anthills.  A dozen or more of them. 

Ant hill with my 4-5 foot walking stick

It got cloudy and started raining, just as I reached Milesburn Cabin.  It was 2.4 miles to the shelters and I had little hope of finding room there.  I got wet and I got to the shelters about 5:30.  Pretty good time.  Both were unoccupied.  A bunch of Boy Scouts camped nearby. 

Raining again.  A girl who works at the ATC Headquarters is here.  She is on her vacation and getting soaked.  And the 2 guys from last night arrived, too.  Crazy Boy Scouts...

Monday, June 23, 2014

Solo - Day 4 - Sunday, June 23, 1974 - Hemlock Hill Leanto to Antietam Leanto

14.8 miles - 745.0 cumulative miles


It started raining last night and rained all day today.  One guy stopped by the shelter this morning headed south.  I finally left at 10:30, after 3 hours of wishing it would stop raining, but it never did.  Got wet.  Stopped for a while and visited with a few people who had been camped out beside the trail.  I hiked on with them, but lost them somewhere when they got to their car at a road crossing.

Stopped at Devil's Racecourse Shelter.  Strange guy there.  Might have stayed if he hadn't been there.  Had lunch and split.  On my way back to the trail I came across a croup of Boy Scouts headed down to the shelter.  Four other people later on along the trail were headed there, as well as 2 more I met a PenMar.

Walked through a pack of dogs on a road (a bit scary).  I fell on my back on a steep descent after going through PenMar Park.  Got my feet wetter than wet crossing a brook.  Raced on real fast to Mackie Run Shelter.  It was filled with people camped out all around.  They all had come in cars.  Ran on another 4.5 miles to Antietam Shelter.  Only 2 guys here.  So I found a dry spot finally.  One guy is 63 years old, hiking from Shenandoah to Maine, or as far as he can go.  The other guy is my age, going along with him.  Only one pack between them.  Real nice shelter.  Hiking today wasn't too bad in the rain.  Nothing much interesting anyway and in the rain it's easier to keep going without stopping.

Sunday, June 22, 2014

Solo - Day 3 - Saturday, June 22, 1974 - Rocky Run Leanto to Hemlock Hill Leanto

15.2 miles - 730.2 cumulative miles


This was not one of my better days.  I have been feeling quite depressed and having doubts about hiking this part of the trail.  I am struggling with it right now.


It was hot and humid and occasionally threatening rain.  I went over a trail bridge across I-64 this morning.  Ran into quite a few people.  Had lunch at Pine Knob shelter.  Ran into a hiker near the end of the day who kind of encouraged me to forget hiking through Pennsylvania and go on up to New England where there is something interesting besides long flat walks.  I get so bored on this section of the trail.  Uninteresting, no variety, hardly any scenery to speak of, very rocky foot way.  All I see are trees, trees, trees!


I am staying at a new shelter (Hemlock Hill).  No water.  Very little in my canteen.  Walked down to the road, which isn't too far away and up and down the road looking for a house where I could get some water.  No luck.  No one home.  I'll have to make do with what I have, I guess.

Saturday, June 21, 2014

Solo - Day 2 - Friday, June 21, 1974 - Harpers Ferry to Rock Run Leanto

9.9 miles - 715.0 cumulative miles

At Crampton Gap State Park, Maryland

Got up around 7:30 and went to the restaurant for breakfast.  After breakfast as I was walking back to the hostel to get ready to leave, I was almost bitten by a couple of dogs.  On my way out to the trail I mailed some letters at a store under the bridge and left 20 cents for stamps. 

Got on the trail at 10:30.  Immediately ran into a gang of Boy Scouts on bikes on the C&O Canal trail.  Also came across a couple of fishermen.  Hiked along easy path by the canal for a mile, then across the highway and up Weaverton Cliffs.  Really steep and rough climb.  Nice views though.  Hot as hell and sunny and humid.  Whew!

Came across a gang of Girl Scouts up there.  Also came across a guy camping in a tent nearby.  Stopped and talked for a while.  He decided to hike along with me to Crampton Gap to get water.  Real nice guy.  I thought he was in his twenties.  Turns out he is a 38 year old high school science teacher.

Came across more Girl Scouts.  20 in all.  Also came across another guy hiking in our direction.  I got to be like the Pied Piper, picking up hikers along the way.  Hiked to Crampton Gap, slowly.  Got there and found water and a Coke machine in the State Park.  Sat around for an hour talking with the teacher (can't remember his name).  Continued on and came across another dozen Girl Scouts.  Also 2 other guys out for a short time.  They were freaked out about my long hiking and heavy pack.

Hiked quickly on up Lambs Knoll and down to Rocky Run Shelter.  It was packed.  A school group.  Tents all over, too.  The other hiker from earlier this morning is here.  It started raining shortly after I got my tent up.  The tent leaks at the seams.  Should have sealed them.  I got wet.  Stopped raining, had dinner and here I am.  Not bad.  Feet hurt a bit on the rocky trail.

Friday, June 20, 2014

Solo - Day 1 - Thursday, June 20, 1974 - Back to Harpers Ferry

All night bus to DC.  Didn't sleep much at all, if any.

Got to DC at 7AM.  Had breakfast, which wasn't very good at all.  Left my pack in a locker at the bus station.  Took a 4 hour bus tour of the city.  Went past all the big sights and stopped at the Jefferson and Lincoln Memorials as well as the Kennedy graves.  Had lunch at the Smithsonian and watched the pendulum knock over pegs.  Far out!

Retrieved my pack and walked through the city from the bus station to the train station.  Got a lot of looks and comments from people as I "hiked" down the side walks with my pack and hiking stick.  Sat around for a few hours reading and writing letters.  I was sure feeling lonely.

Got on the train after getting wet from a thunder shower going from the station to the train.  It started raining just as I got outside, of course.  Had an interesting trip with a car full of men in business suits signing petitions and drinking.

Got to Harpers Ferry at 6PM.  A group of Boy Scouts got off, too.  Walked toward the hostel.  Did get a ride after a while.  There were 3 other people at the hostel: one hiker and 2 bicyclists.  No one around to collect money.  Went to a restaurant and wrote letters over dinner. 

Thursday, June 19, 2014

Interlude - Rick's account of his post-intermission solo hike

This is Rick. I thought I would tell what I did next. Peter will be continuing his entries soon but I will no longer be with him.  Peter is the one in the family who is the record keeper so he has his journal entries.  I don't have any journal entries so I need to work from memory. 

Along the Housatonic River
I think part of the reason I didn't continue with Peter was I had a time constraint.  I had already signed up to enter the Navy in October.  I was probably hoping to at least finish the New England part of the trail before then. Of course, that didn't happen either.


After a short break at home my future wife (Pam) brought me to the southern part of the trail in Connecticut.  I started from there heading north.  I don't remember how far I got or how long I was out on the trail.  I think I was probably out for a week.  All the time I was out I didn't see anyone else on the trail. It was pretty lonely out there and a little creepy out in the woods alone at night. I finally gave up and went back home.



Again after being at home for a short time I decided I wanted to go out to Cape Cod to see if I could find a job for the rest of the summer on a boat or something. I hopped on my bike in southeastern Connecticut and rode it out to the Cape. Because summer had already started I was not able to find anything.  After a while I went back home and spent the rest of the summer there. I am sure Pam appreciated that.  

In October I went into the Navy for boot camp in Orlando,  then to Great Lakes, Illinois (for the winter) for electronics school then to Groton, Connecticut for submarine school.  Finally I ended up in San Diego for four and a half years on the submarine USS Barb. 

Even though we did not finish our hike it was a great experience, and I think we both learned a lot.  Reading all the blog entries after all these years has brought back a lot of memories.

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Day 82 - Tuesday, June 11, 1974 - Harpers Ferry to NYC





The Potomac River looking up river to Harpers Ferry

Got up around 6AM.  Slept well.  Clear morning.  Blair left for DC.  Guitar man left for the trail.  Rick and I left for Harpers Ferry.  Walked the 3 miles there.  Had breakfast at the Hilltop Hotel.  The waitress gave us extra toast and some of her homemade apple butter.

Railroad bridge from Harpers Ferry to Maryland

Went to the ATC [Appalachian Trail Conference, then - now known as the Appalachian Trail Conservancy] headquarters.  Rick joined.  Talked with the receptionist about my plans for the rest of the trail.  Also met Peter Dunning (whom we wrote to a long time ago about hiking the trail).  We helped stuff envelopes with newsletter.  Peter D. treated us to lunch, though he couldn't join us.  Went to the Iron Horse Restaurant and ordered BLTs and chef salad.  They had no lettuce, so had BCTs with cottage cheese and pineapple salads.

Rick at ATC Headquarters

Got train tickets to DC, walked around Harpers Ferry and back to the Headquarters.  There we were offered a ride to Frederick with Jean Cashin [the receptionist] to get a Greyhound bus home.  Refunded the train tickets, got back to the headquarters and found there was no key to the car trunk, and the building was locked up with our packs inside.  Finally found a key to the Headquarters, but had to stuff 5 people and 2 packs into that small car for the 20 miles to Frederick.  Had tuna salad at the Cashin's house. 

Peter at ATC Headquarters

Their daughter took us down to the bus station where we waited 45 minutes for the bus.  Got to Baltimore and waited 1 1/2 hours for the next bus.  Slept all the way to NYC.  Left Baltimore at 10:35, got to Grand Central Station at 1:45AM.  Have to wait here until 6:30AM for a bus to New London.  So here we sit.  Should get to Connecticut around 10AM.

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Day 81 - Monday, June 10, 1974 - Three Springs Leanto to Harpers Ferry, WVa

22.7 miles - 705.1 cumulative miles

Three Springs Leanto

Woke up around 6AM again.  Had a couple of raccoon visitors last night as well as a mouse.  Strange red glow in the sky from the direction of the "Top-Secret Military Base" [Mt Weather Emergency Operations Center] and a sulfur odor this morning. 

A day in the life of a hiker: morning grooming...

...and coffee

Got going around 7:30 and hiked out to the road and on down to Snickers Gap where we ran into a prison road crew.  Hiked on up the road 1.6 miles and then off into the woods.  Finally got through with those (expletive deleted) roads.

Snickers Gap



Devil's Racecourse

Hiked by Devil's Racecourse.  Interesting.  Then on and on through the woods on relatively easy terrain.  Rocky though.  Got to Wilson Gap around 11AM and had lunch.  Nicest looking shelter I've seen so far.  Even had a window and an inside fire place.

Wilson Gap Shelter

Started out again and went 1/4 mile down a wrong path.  Then almost took another wrong turn a little way further.  Poorly marked trail.  Continued on over more of the same.  Rocky and tiring.  Pushed hard.  It was hot and sunny and humid, too.  Not easy hiking though the trail was mostly flat.  Got to Keys Gap Shelter around 3:30 and found a family group there out for 2 months.  Spread all over the place.  Gave us ice.

Large ant hill

Lunch

Hot and humid

Started again at 4PM and began the last 6 miles to Harper's Ferry.  We were hiking all day with our friend from Pennsylvania.  He is carrying a hollow body electric guitar on his pack.  No amplifier.  As we approached the overlook of Harper's Ferry we heard thunder.  The view was really great and we also had an unbelievable view of the approaching storm.  Saw the rain coming, so we started very quickly down the hill to the highway, when we proceeded to get soaked. 

View from Weaverton Cliffs overlooking the Potomac River

Crossed the Potomac River and went to the youth hostel [Sandy Hook Hostel].  Blair O., whom we had met at Byrd's Nest No. 3 shelter in the Shenandoah was there.  We went with our guitar friend to a restaurant and got soaked again after taking showers.  Started raining as soon as we went outside.  Had a great chicken dinner.  Walked back and saw thousands of fireflies all over the place.  Never seen so many.

Monday, June 9, 2014

Day 80 - Sunday, June 9, 1974 - Mosby Leanto to Three Springs Leanto

25.0 miles - 682.4 cumulative miles


We woke up around 6AM and started hiking about 7:30.  There were rats around the shelter, but fortunately I didn't see them.  No problem.


Manassas Gap Shelter - mid morning break

Hiked through some real nice woods and then onto the roads.  Got to Linden, VA.  Quiet Sunday morning.  Hiked up the road a ways when a couple of older ladies stopped and tried to offer us a ride.  They were PATC (Potomac Appalachian Trail Club) members going out to work on the trail.  Hiked through a short section in woods off the road.  Then back on the roads and to a fire tower.  Then down the road.

Fire Tower


It was hot and sunny and dusty and just generally rotten hiking.  Not crazy about road walking.  It was easy, though.  We made good time and got to Ashby Gap at about 1:30-2:00.  There we ate at a snack bar. For about 2 miles or so just before the gap there was a section where a landowner had put up signs saying "This is not the Appalachian Trail", etc. and he had painted out the blazes.  It is a public road, but it seems that he is just trying to keep hikers out of the area.


View from the fire tower
Continued on at 3PM and hiked up hard surface roads (the previous 8 miles or so were gravel).  Got to Three Springs shelter which is on a short loop trail off of the road.  No familiar names here.

 

Sunday, June 8, 2014

Day 79 - Saturday, June 8, 1974 - Indian Run Leanto to Mosby Leanto

6.4 miles - 657.4 cumulative miles


It rained all last night.  After the ranger told us we couldn't sleep in the shelter, we all went out and set up our tents in the dark.  Foggy, too.  Hard to see where we were going and where we were even setting our tents up.

We got up around 6AM and went back to the shelter where we had a leisurely breakfast.  Left before 8AM and hiked 2 miles out of the park and then down hill on a paved road.  Civilization.  Walked about 1/2 mile beyond the post office, which was hidden off a side road.  Got a pile of mail.  Also Mom sent us some Hobo bread and we got our new guide book.  Went to a store and got supper for today, because we found that the next shelter is the last one for 22 miles.  And that 22 miles is all on roads.  Fun!

We climbed through heavy seasonal growth to Mosby Shelter and got very wet.  The shelter is a mess.  Supposedly has rats!

Saturday, June 7, 2014

Day 78 - Friday, June 7, 1974 - Pass Mountain Leanto to Indian Run Leanto

20.4 miles - 651.0 cumulative miles


I woke up before 6AM and got out of the tent.  It was cloudy, foggy and threatening rain.  While Rick was taking down the tent two deer wandered up and started grazing right next to him.  Ten feet away.  I took some pictures of them and got within 6 feet of them with not much of a problem.  One was a little scared and kept starting to run away, but kept coming back.  Amazing deer in this park.


Left around 8AM and hiked to Elk Wallow Wayside.  Got there around 11:30.  Had lunch after calling the post office in Chester Gap.  Just as we were getting ready to leave a large bear walked up to the parking lot.  The bear opened up a trash can and proceeded to have a feast right there in the middle of the parking lot [this was before bear-proof trash cans].  Meanwhile all these tourists, including us, gathered around taking pictures.  Our first bear!





Hiked on from there.  It had cleared in the morning, but right after we left Elk Wallow it clouded up again.  Stayed that way the rest of the day.  Began raining later on in the day.


Ran into two guys who stopped for lunch the day we laid over at Black Rock Shelter.  Passed them.  Met another guy who had just gotten out of the Marines.  He's hiking south to Georgia, then skipping up to Maine and then hiking south back to here again. 



















Got to the shelter around 7:30.  Four other guys here.  A Ranger is here now checking permits Says we can't use the shelter.  You are only allowed to use the shelters in inclement weather.  Even though it is after dark, raining and foggy, that is not considered inclement weather.